Surf's Up

It's the end of season and we only have morning practice.  Many of my teammates take advantage of this situation to go party every night at the 9-0 down by the row.  That place isn't exactly my cup of tea even though I am in a fraternity.  No I spend my nights watching movies and sleeping so I can get up bright and early as I were going to practice, but I get up and hit the road to Malibu when there is swell.  Luckily for me, the spring South/SouthWest swells are moving in rather frequently.  Right now there is a 10 foot South swell moving in a 185 degrees. With all the islands blocking Malibu, the swell will probably be 6-7 feet.

Waking up for morning practice has been a dread on me all year but waking up and driving out to the beach is the best feeling ever.  It only gets better when you get out there and you look at the water and all you see are perfect 4 foot barrels.  My social life may not be at the bar or in a bed with a girl, but it definitely has some meaning to it in barrels of water.  It is an undescribable feeling the moment you take off on that wave and the power of the wave just shoots you down the line.  A feeling that can only be felt during the act of doing it.